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Category Archives: Zambia
Five have fun in Africa. A lost work by Enid Blyton?
‘Africa 2013. Countdown to the Rains.’ ‘Africa’? Just, ‘Africa’? OK, so it’s a common form of shorthand. But not one you find in Europe. I mean, imagine it, ‘Europe 2013: snow’s on its way. Join us as the ski season … Continue reading
That road – dejà viewed. Part 4: the journey’s end.
The man who’s driving this long and just-beginning-to-be-winding road has a very soothing manner. On another day I might – just might – find Fegan’s manner too soothing. As in irritatingly slow. Tonight, his aura of calm is perfect. I sink into the … Continue reading
Posted in If you only read one ..., Zambia
Tagged charcoal burniing, Great East Road, Land Cruiser, Luangwa Bridge Camp, Lusaka, Nyimba, Petauke, Pioneer Camp, slave trade, Slavery, Travel, Zambia
4 Comments
It’s somewhere, not nowhere – and we’ve been there. [Part 3 of that road journey]
The darkness I feared is falling, but we’re no longer straddling that hot, narrow, frightening stretch of road. We’ve driven a few hundred metres. The distance from peril to safety. We hope. Hordes of children gather. Women appear, suspicious, but inquisitive. … Continue reading
Posted in If you only read one ..., Zambia
Tagged baobab, Cosmos, cream of tartar, Land Cruiser, Malawi tea, Nyimba, Tennessee Williams, Travel, Zambia
4 Comments
On the road to nowhere . Part 2.
Eleven o’clock. The heat increasing with every passing minute. I can hardly bear to think of time. There should be another five hours of road before us, but now? God only knows. A stunned-looking Archaeo-man pulls out his cellphone. I … Continue reading
Posted in If you only read one ..., Zambia
Tagged breakdown, car hire, cellphone, driving, Great East Road, Nyimba, road, Travel, Zambia
5 Comments
Halfway to nowhere. Part 1
The calls of night-jar and owl punctuate the stillness of the hours before dawn. Four in the morning and the man who lights the fires under the hot water boilers has been and gone. I lie, wishing for sleep, knowing … Continue reading
Posted in If you only read one ..., Zambia
Tagged 4x4, Africa, Chipata, Great East Road, Luangwa Bridge, Lusaka, miombo woodland, Nyimba, Travel, Zambia
6 Comments
An entomologist walks into a bar…
A tiny rainbow, flitting across the Indian Ocean, like a teardrop fallen from God’s eye, a prism for the sun. I’m awake. Thinking. It’s 2.30 am – or thereabouts. This afternoon, for the first time in a week I checked my … Continue reading
Posted in If you only read one ..., Zambia
Tagged baboons, dragonflies, emails, Lusaka, Pioneer Camp, rainbow, stress, Travel, Zambia
6 Comments
Subterranean indigestion?
Rotten eggs, a smell I can put a name to, though I don’t think I’ve ever come across the real deal. A rotten egg, I mean. But now I’m standing in the full glare of the tropical sun, wilting, weary … Continue reading
Posted in Zambia
Tagged antelopes, bones, eggs, elephants, hot water springs, Itezhi-Tezhi, Later Stone Age, lechwe, stone tools, sulphur, Travel
9 Comments