Tag Archives: Travel

It’s somewhere, not nowhere – and we’ve been there. [Part 3 of that road journey]

The darkness I feared is falling, but we’re no longer straddling that hot, narrow, frightening stretch of road. We’ve driven a few hundred metres. The distance from peril to safety. We hope. Hordes of children gather. Women appear, suspicious, but inquisitive. … Continue reading

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On the road to nowhere . Part 2.

Eleven o’clock. The heat increasing with every passing minute. I can hardly bear to think of time. There should be another five hours of road before us, but now? God only knows. A stunned-looking Archaeo-man pulls out his cellphone. I … Continue reading

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Halfway to nowhere. Part 1

The calls of night-jar and owl punctuate the stillness of the hours before dawn. Four in the morning and the man who lights the fires under the hot water boilers has been and gone. I lie, wishing for sleep, knowing … Continue reading

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An entomologist walks into a bar…

A tiny rainbow, flitting across the Indian Ocean, like a teardrop fallen from God’s eye, a prism for the sun. I’m awake. Thinking. It’s 2.30 am – or thereabouts. This afternoon, for the first time in a week I checked my … Continue reading

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Subterranean indigestion?

Rotten eggs, a smell I can put a name to, though I don’t think I’ve ever come across the real deal. A rotten egg, I mean. But now I’m standing in the full glare of the tropical sun, wilting, weary … Continue reading

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On soap, water and being worth it

We’re bumping along a track through scrubby woodland in a because-we-need-it four-by-four. It’s the end of a dehydrating day spent working in a haze of heat and orange dust. Digging, sieving, scraping. Tstetse flies biting through clothing, sweat bees dipping … Continue reading

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The song I know of Africa (who doesn’t know one of me)

Is that a humming sound? Hum becomes buzz. An insect passes by, unhurried. Buzz fades into hum again – and the insect vanishes. A bird on creaking wings utters a plaintive call as it crosses the glinting river and heads … Continue reading

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