Category Archives: Travelling

On soap, water and being worth it

We’re bumping along a track through scrubby woodland in a because-we-need-it four-by-four. It’s the end of a dehydrating day spent working in a haze of heat and orange dust. Digging, sieving, scraping. Tstetse flies biting through clothing, sweat bees dipping … Continue reading

Posted in Thinking, or ranting, or both, Zambia | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 5 Comments

The song I know of Africa (who doesn’t know one of me)

Is that a humming sound? Hum becomes buzz. An insect passes by, unhurried. Buzz fades into hum again – and the insect vanishes. A bird on creaking wings utters a plaintive call as it crosses the glinting river and heads … Continue reading

Posted in If you only read one ..., Zambia | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 18 Comments

Seeking an armadillo cure, we bring no guns but find a Trigger

Seven in the morning and it’s twilight in the Sunrise café. The curtains are still drawn on the city of Dripping Springs, Texas. City? Population 3000? Whatever. ‘It’s an old building,’ says our waitress, terser than you’d expect. She’s probably … Continue reading

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In which Thelma and Louise drink wine – and have a sobering evening

‘Hey, Louise, we need to find us a cliff.’ That’s my sister-in-law, Thelma. Not her real name. But it kinda suits her. Elvis the cat bats his tail against the floor. It’s his real name and he recognises it. He’s a … Continue reading

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Africa, the first time. Passports are important things.

You learn a lot from travel, not always the obvious things about culture, diversity, language and stuff. My first trip to Africa taught me that you really should keep your passport up to date. Especially if you have ‘journalist’ as your … Continue reading

Posted in Socks, spoons, stones and sunsets, Travelling, Zambia | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

A man walks into a bar. . . Pub conversation, Zambia-style

Football. It’s a universal language – well except in the USA of course. (What’s that? That other game they play with the pointy ball that isn’t rugby? American football. Doh.) Anthro-man walks into a bar. In Zambia. ‘Hello, how are … Continue reading

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The fall of the Fort of Ussher?

We’re in a taxi heading back into Accra from the University at Legon, our first and only attempt at sightseeing on this very short visit. As we near the coast, the throat-searing fumes spewed from elderly vehicles stuck in stagnant … Continue reading

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