Suzy’s cabin, a missed appointment & a little yellow pill

‘I’ve got a cabin on the game reserve – you can borrow it if you like.’

That’s Suzy speaking. She’s in Swaziland with the US Peace Corps and has the most amazing hair – long, naturally blonde, it falls nearly to her bottom, even when it’s plaited. Wow.

Her cabin’s on a reserve in the Heavenly Valley, not far – excited squeal – from the archaeologists’ Centre. A hop, skip and jump from weekending Tex. OK, so the ‘jump’ is over a very large fence – but he’s young, he’s fit.

I nearly bite Suzy’s hand off.

So I leave my natty blue caravan – and its sadly-lacking lock. Nice people give me a lift with odds and ends to eat and drink, plus paper and pens (I’m writing a piece for the Swazi Observer).

But as the day tails away I begin to worry. This place is a game reserve. I have no car. It’s a pretty fair walk to the gate. From the windows I spy not only the beautiful shards of the mountains fading to grey in the twilight, but also the warthogs.

Now, you’ve probably not read the Thorn Birds (the TV series was big that year) but in said book a wild boar gores a chap to death. Suddenly those warthogs cease to be cute trotting piggies with tusks, they’re prison guards.

As evening falls I’m happier, settling into my newfound independence – and the cabin. Everything’s in miniature, including a neat verandah framed by a full length sliding window (that locks).

It’s dark by the time a torch-bearing Tex comes bounding down the hill and leaps the fence – well, climbs it. He can’t stay, he says. I wonder… Did he get one of those airmail letters today, the ones from ‘Miss A Jones’? I squash the thought like a nasty fly.

Tex brings an unwelcome message. Tagalong man plans to pop by later – after dinner – to ‘discuss things’. Great.

We drink a glass of wine but all too soon it’s time for Tex and his torch to leave. I mope around, feed myself a small can of beans and wait.

And wait.

And wait.

I fall asleep, waiting.

I wake to the sound of knocking and drag my reluctant body over to the door. I’m about to open it when some wonderful instinct stops me.  I realise he hasn’t said anything.

‘Tagalong, is that you?’

No reply.

Oh God.

Footsteps. I hear footsteps.

I switch off the light and race into the sitting room – I know I left the window ajar. I shove it to with a crash and pray I haven’t broken it. Frantic now I struggle to find the lock but luck is with me and I shoot it home. I shrink into the corner and pray.

Time passes.

I can’t spend all night standing here. Still terrified I make my way to the kitchen. I root out the Valium (stolen from my mum – she won’t miss them), pour a glass of wine and swallow a little yellow pill.

I sit on the edge of the bed, kitchen knife in hand, listening with all my might. Eventually I stretch out, praying it won’t be my last act on this earth.

I wake up next morning. The mountains, still shard like, have a wreath of mist around them. But it’s not for me. Dull, but true.

Sorry for the anticlimax – but I hope you’re glad I’m still alive and unmolested.

Next time: I decide to cook my way to a man’s heart but still have no car so …

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Blind fury – a tale of failure from the bush (and possibly a parable for 2012)

Jim’s had a quadruple bypass, he’s in his mid 70s and lied about his age to get on the dig. A skilled engineer, he coaxes the ancient, paraffin-fuelled Coca Cola fridge back to life –for a day at least. Deanne may be forty five, may be fifty five – hard to tell. She’s had a bit of work done on her face but it’s subtle. Every morning she hangs a mirror from a branch of a tree to do her make up. Fresh from divorce she’s raw but not bitter, just looking for a man to fill the empty space in her life.

Jim and Deanne are kneeling on the ground, in a dusty rock shelter, chatting. Along with several other waifs and strays – mostly Americans –  they’re excavating a Later Stone Age site in Swaziland, southern Africa.

Not everyone’s a mature survivor. Outside a couple of youngsters are standing in the sun, shipped off by wealthy parents for the summer, maybe for the life-changing experience, maybe just to get them off their hands – who knows.

Both boys are seventeen. One’s a nice, kind youngster of average height, average looks and above average charm. The other’s tall, handsome, fretful, impatient – and totally blind. They didn’t travel together and a few days ago they didn’t know each other.

The blind boy – let’s call him Zed – laughs a lot, but it’s not a happy laugh, it’s an echo of the way his gawky frame looks. The other boy, Bob we’ll call him, wears glasses. He’s nervous, tugs a lot on his floppy hat and smiles a cheerful smile.

Today Bob’s looking unhappy. It’s not like him. But he has a problem. We have a problem.

Zed came alone, so we all have to take turns looking after him. Or rather, some of us do. Believe me, not everyone who’s spent a fortune crossing continents is willing to spend their time leading a blind boy around.

Bob, inevitably, bears the brunt of the burden. But an increasingly frustrated,  irritable and un-asked for pal is spoiling the trip of his young lifetime. And it makes Bob miserable to be selfish. See – I said he was a nice kind boy.

So, Tex and I are pondering what to do with Zed who really, really wants to dig.

OK – so how hard can it be?

We send Bob off to dig with the others and set Zed up with a pit to stand in so the surface he needs to dig is at waist height. We give him a small square of his own and hold his hand to show him how to use the trowel.

Blind people develop their other senses to make up for their missing sight, don’t they? Well, maybe it’s true, but maybe it’s just something we made up so we’d feel less guilty, we who are privileged to have a full, working set of sensory apparatus. Anyway, we lay out various stones, bones and artefacts and watch as he feels each one and we describe it.

A few of us take turns standing with Zed, digging with him, feeling finds with him and trying to help him work out how far he has dug, what he has dug, what he has found.

We try. He tries. And he cries. In fact, he howls. He digs great gouges out of his square in anger and frustration and throws the trowel aside in total exasperation.

In the dust of a cave, where colour changes in the soil are important, where different rocks do not really feel that different and a bone feels just like a twig – Zed simply cannot do it.

Fast forward now to 2012….

It’s been a great summer, here in newly Paralympics-mad Great Britain, for overcoming prejudices. The games won the hearts of millions, showed us real people overcoming massive odds to achieve great things – to be the best. No surprise then, to hear someone on the BBC say:

anyone can achieve anything if they set their minds to it.

Listen to me, world. IT IS NOT TRUE.

It is a laudable idea that we can overcome any difficulty that this unfair, sometimes cruel world throws at us. But wouldn’t it be more realistic – and less disappointing – if we believed that each of us, no matter what our ability, can do something wonderful if we put our minds to it? Something that is within our capabilities, whatever they are? That if we can’t, really can’t do something, no matter how hard we try, we’re not failures if we simply change our aspirations?

We can all achieve. We can all respect other people’s achievements for what they are. Now that really would make the world a better place, don’t you think?

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Mr Sledge sings thrice & the Land Rover doesn’t turn into a pumpkin

‘When a ma-an loves a wom-an . . . ’

Percy’s warming up, the same song three times, the same lines three times, testing the sound system. Not sure we can stay till he does his thing for real because Tex is on a curfew – must be home by midnight, or else.

Or else what, I wonder?

We have a few drinks, laugh a lot and I sympathise with Janet. She broke a bone in her foot while disposing of a dead mouse. She lends me a children’s book and gives me a bag of sweets. I feel like an invalid but she’s the one in the cast.

The clock hands edge past eleven and all too soon the fun stops. It’s time to go.

The Land Rover chugs its way towards Malkerns, down that dark, mysterious valley, the heavenly Ezulwini. Mountains, streams and waterfalls – even King Solomon’s mines – are resting under the cover of night.

The diggers’ lively chatter tails off. They have to drop me off and make it back themselves before the Land Rover turns into a pumpkin. Or whatever it is the director’s cursed them with this time.

I’m getting anxious at the thought, the: ‘When will I see you again . . .’ kind of thought. Why is it songs you’d rather not have in your head pop in at critical moments and stay? Popular culture, an unwelcome song for every occasion.

It’s a sad parting. I light the lamp in my caravan, contemplate writing some notes but I’m not in the mood. I try and read the children’s book but the thought of that murdered night watchman slips into my head. My ears alert for the sounds of the night, I lie awake, happy and sad.

I’m just dropping off to sleep when I hear a vehicle approaching. The engine stops. I hear footsteps. Adrenaline’s amazing stuff. The penknife’s in my hand. The footsteps are very close. They stop. There’s a gentle knock on the door. (The door that doesn’t lock – I’ve added a wedge of cardboard to buy me time when the murderer of my fertile imagination arrives.)

‘It’s me, are you asleep?’

I rush to remove the wedge and let him in. Yes, it’s the return of Tex, gone midnight.

But what about the curfew?

Seems there was a plan all along. They went to bed, waited till the director was off in the Land of Nod and the door to his private rooms firmly shut. Then ‘covert ops’ sprang into action. Sneaking out into the shooting-star-spattered night they pushed the Land Rover – Tex at the wheel – uphill. At the top they set it off rolling, down through the bat-flitting, monkey-sleeping orange groves,  heading for the road. Safely out of hearing range, Tex set the engine running.

And now . . .  It’s still dark, but it’s morning. (You didn’t really think I was going to say any more about the night, did you?) As Tex sets off a tiny pearl of light’s beginning to grow on the horizon.  The mountains, like nosy friends, peek from behind the net curtain of dawn.  The air is saturated with dew and impregnated with wood smoke.

I stand on the step of my temporary home, just looking. The night watchman has survived the night – at least he’s walking, so he’s still alive. I watch his thin figure, arms hugging his thick greatcoat to his reedy body in the chill of the southern African winter. I wave. He shrugs.

Back in the caravan I notice something on the pillow. A cassette. Tattoo You.  I have my sexy sax back, just in time. It’ll help me while away the time, Waiting for a Friend.

Next time: not sure, Baked Alaska or Scary, Scary Night? We’ll see.

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It’ll all end in tiaras

I wouldn’t go to the hairdressers, to be honest, if I could blow dry it myself, but what with the frozen shoulder and the frizzy hair – it just looks better if they do it. But last time I was there – well, maybe I was a bit tired.  There was this girl, just sitting there, staring at herself in the mirror – I mean, we all do it a bit but she was – well, transfixed.

Terence, the top stylist, was doing her hair – she’s that shade of blonde you know’s not natural but it’s hard to tell from the real thing, not a single obvious streak. And her skin – pale as lemon pith. So there she sits, cool as a cucumber in a sleeveless top, scarcely a bump in her blouse where her breasts should be. And no bra. You could just tell.

Maybe I was more than just tired, maybe I was – I don’t know – jealous?

Anyway, she’s having an up-do, just a trial run. She’s getting married. It’s her second bloody rehearsal and she’s having her nails done too. I don’t know what set me off, maybe it was the tiara. Yes, I think it was the tiara. When he set that into the up-do and teased out a couple of locks so they just hung down – a bit like ivy trailing out of a hanging basket – something inside me flipped.

One by one the hairdressers turned round, including the girl doing mine. They all had hairdryers going and before you know it they’re standing there, either side the shop, hairdryers pointing upwards like a hot-air guard of honour. They’re all going ‘ooh, isn’t she lovely,’  ‘ah, just like a princess’, ‘you enjoy it hon, your fairy tale day’.

She’s still staring.  Oblivious. You could’ve passed out with a heart attack and she’d have missed it.

I stood up – looked a right fool with my hair half wet, half dry – walked up behind her and looked at her in the mirror. Made her notice me. Then God knows what made me do it, but I pulled up my top.

‘See these,’ I said, everyone staring at me, ‘ that’s what yours’ll look like after you’ve had four bloody children. Fairy tale day? Tragic bloody ending, more like. Don’t do it. He’s not worth it. They’re not worth it.’

Terence took me by the arm, Gill put down her dryer and pulled my top back down. I left with my hair still half done. It’s looked terrible all week.

I don’t think I’ll be going there again.

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Tapeworm eggs, Sheba’s Breasts and Waiting for a Friend

I’m  having a flashback to the weekend before the exile.

I’m all alone, kneeling in front of a tarpaulin, staring at a huge chunk of bloody flesh and bone – an impala’s hindquarters. Impalas leap as they run, springing off long, elegant legs, showing off their stripy bottoms. That’s why they have such muscular legs – and bottoms.

It’s day one of our weekly two-day break. Time for laundry and lectures, shopping and sightseeing. Or butchery, in my case. The others are out, on a jaunt through the pretty hills of the Swazi Middleveld. Nice.

The Rolling Stones, in mellow mood, waft down from the eaves where the stereo is stashed. ‘Waiting for a Friend’ from Tattoo You. Ooooooh – yeah. Love that saxophone.

I hack away at the poor dead creature’s leg. A cluster of tapeworm eggs nestles in a muscle bundle. I toy with the idea of putting them on the director’s plate, telling him it’s a rare white form of caviar. No I don’t, not really. By the time I’ve salvaged enough meat to feed 14 hungry diggers for a week the skin on my arms is taut, crusty with drying flesh from wrist to elbow. Like a rash of scabs.

That was last week. This week I won’t be there when the team pulls into town. This time someone else will be cooking (and washing Tagalongman’s socks).

But I’m missing my Stones – that sunny, soothing, sexy sax.

There’s a record shop, Fran says, in Mbabane, not far from the ‘OK!’ supermarket. Maybe I could run some errands – her car, my credit card?  I pull into the car park and dash for the shops, dodging the raggedy boys with the faraway eyes. They’re begging for coins. They’ll use them to buy glue – for sniffing.

The record shop has vinyl, some cassettes, no Stones. Looks like I’m stuck with ‘Cats’. Fran keeps the tape in  the car – she’s learning the words for an amateur production. So, I trudge around the OK! then load up with flimsy plastic bags full of bread and milk, yogurt and tins.

Singing along to ‘Memory’, I ease the diesel down the hill, past the distant peaks of Sheba’s Breasts which rise above – legend has it – King Solomon’s Mines.  A stark banner across the road tells me ‘Faster may mean disaster’. I ease my foot off the accelerator.

Inside I’m in knots. What have I done? Who is this guy Tex? What do I really know about him? Who do those weekly letters come from, hmmm?

Maybe you think I’m being a tad over-anxious. But I’m in exile. It warps your perspective, believe me.

I arrive back on the farm as the setting sun slips behind the hills. Fran’s smiling – there’s a message. Tex thinks Percy Sledge is singing tonight at the Lugogo Sun – can we meet? Fran offers a lift. My worries evaporate. Except . . . what shall I wear? And is there time to wash my hair?

Ah.

Ain’t love grand?

‘Next time’ apology: you’ll be used to my random ‘next time’ offerings by now but for the next instalment I think I really will do night-time manoeuvres – though maybe not Mozambique prawns. We’ll see. And there’s a little fictional short on its way too – It’ll all end in tiaras.

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Sex, politics and Marvin Gaye

The phone rings at the pineapple farm. It’s for me – but I’m not there. To use the parlance of our times* – this is epic.

To understand why, imagine a world where there’s no email, a world where every phone is fixed in one place and wired to a wall. A world with no answering machines, no voicemail, no ring-back, nothing. Done that? OK.

Tex (the reason I’ve been banished – do keep up) is out in the bush directing diggers. He sneaks away, drives miles to a post office, in a village, in the middle of a sugar plantation, to use the only phone there is. So missing that call is – epic.

I’m badly in need of a morale boost. ‘I’m going out tonight,’ says Fran’s ex (I’ll call him Tom), ‘come along if you like, might cheer you up.’ Tom lives in a traditional Swazi hut, just shouting distance from my caravan. Reassuring, given the dodgy lock and the murdered night watchman.

So, I put on my party frock (well, a frock) and out we step. First stop an agricultural research station where we pick up Tom’s chum Mike. Next, briefly, a rather seedy bar where I feel distinctly out of place. Finally, the ‘Why Not Disco’.

It’s dark inside. Pools of light draw your eyes to films projected on the walls. Car crashes. Flesh. I try not to look. We shuffle onto the dance floor. Well it is a disco. They’re playing Marvin Gaye’s ‘Sexual Healing’. I dance like a robot, grateful when the music stops.

Out troops a bevy of bare breasted beauties, boredom blazoned across their faces. The ‘Swazi Dancers’ form a line across the middle of the dance floor. Supposedly traditional music starts up, they jiggle, waggle – and still look bored.

I down my g & t. My companions raise their eyebrows with that ‘shall we go’ kind of look and we head for the exit. But our path’s blocked by a screaming woman beating a man with her fists. We scuttle past, keeping close to the wall.

‘Sorry ‘bout that,’ says Mike, ‘he hasn’t paid her – she’s mad.’

‘Hasn’t paid her for …’ I know the answer.

So why all this sleaze? Well, it’s the 1980s. This little African kingdom’s surrounded on three sides by apartheid. South Africans can’t gamble. Mixed race relationships are illegal. Sex, gaming (and drugs) have become, you might say, an economic jewel in the right royal crown.

It’s not just sleaze. Political fugitives, ANC members, seek sanctuary here. Fran knows some of them. She feels the sharp end of discrimination on her business trips in South Africa. Oddly pale with frizzy black hair, police harass her, ‘accuse’ her of being mixed race, of not having a pass, of being where only white folks should be.

One day, cross border raids will start and nowhere will be safe for the freedom fighters. The storm clouds of HIV, busy gathering on the horizon, will break over the sex trade.

But right now, it’s still party time.

*Big Lebowski ref

Next time: night-time manoeuvres, Percy Sledge, Mozambique prawns

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Banished

My last night in the bush. Last bath in a tin tub, perched on a ledge, way above the plain. By day you might see zebras as you wash away the dust. By night you lie back, gazing on shooting stars – no sooner seen than gone, glorious but dead.

The water comes by hose from a railway siding on the line to Mozambique. It’s warmed in an oil drum over a wood fire stoked by Dudu, a young Swazi woman.  She’s working as a ‘maid’ but she’s really a teacher. A lightning bolt will strike her dead before she’s even thirty.

All too soon morning comes. It’s 5.30 am and chilly. No-one else is up yet, but there’s breakfast to make, fire to coax back into life. I trudge up to the bathing ledge, fill the kettle, stick my head under the hose and rub the night from my face. I forgot my soap and there’s none kicking around – the baboons steal it.

My cold hands clasp a tin mug of hot tea. Down on the plain impalas graze amid the acacias, bleached of colour by the lemon light.

The diggers depart and tears are shed. I wait. At last the old VW Combi with no second gear arrives. I climb aboard, en route to exile.

The yellow van rattles along the dirt road, struggles up the hills and dumps me on a pineapple farm in a place called Malkerns. All alone in a stranger’s empty house – I’m tense, tired and not a little frightened.

My host, let’s call her Fran, returns to find a cuckoo in her nest, but she’s not fazed. She’s seen it all before. Seems the great director has form with this banishing thing.

I’m set to work making lime jelly, then scooping out orange halves, a birthday treat for one of Fran’s sons. I make a hash of the oranges but she says nothing.

Night falls, wine is drunk and it’s time for bed. But I’m not sharing the house – a caravan at the edge of the nearest field’s my bedroom. ‘Be careful,’ warns Fran, ‘our night watchman was murdered not so long ago.’ She woke one night to find hands around her throat. Now she has bigger dogs.

I stumble across the rough ground. The door’s reluctant to lock. I face the night with fear, penknife in hand, and cry myself to a restless sleep. But morning dawns beautiful, with hills on the horizon under clear blue skies. I take coffee outside and sit beneath the thatched eaves of a roof where rats run.

Company arrives in a pick up truck. The mohair salesman studies me – the new creature in the zoo – smokes a cigarette, tells me about a barn with bricks stored in its false roof. Dope bricks. His plans for smuggling seem extraordinary and I wonder if it’s all talk. A few weeks later nothing seems extraordinary any more.

Next time: I’ll take you to the ‘Why Not’. Promise.

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